2TC in my MGB ? anyone done it?

Just thinking on putting a 2TC in my 71 MGB, what R u all thinking on this and has anyone done it or heard of it. Its a great motor and I dont need lots of speed, just reliability with not alot of adjusting.

Thanks
Scott

Why? What is unreliable about the 5 main MG engine? You can get 120 reliable all day long HP from one. And the car weighs all of 2500 lbs.

Not a simple task but workable. i've seen a 454 in a MGB Corvette rear and mustang front.

The 2tc is a larger engine by size and shape. the Oil pan is such that the engine be placed closer to the firewall. Some cutting of the floor boards and firewall and loss of the heater box. You'll have to make your own motor mounts and transmission mounts, new drive shaft is also necessary.

The pluses are amuch more reliable engine with cheaper parts, I have a 10.5:1 compression bored and stroked 2tc fast cam electronic ignition with Mallory Multispark ignition. around 200 HP vs. MG with 85 HP not 120.

Also have dual Weber carb set up You'll ned to fabricate an exhaust header.

These engines are used extensively for racing. Parts are readily available.
One wire alternators, distributors, header flange ready for fabricating your own header, weber carb set up in either 32/36 progressive, DCOE single or dual carb manifolds, multiple cam set ups etc.

I am still in process of fabricating a new waterpump(aluminum is stock) because the alternator was moved to the other side because of interference with the rack and pinion. This necessitated the manufacture of new alternator brackets and designing new waterpump outlet.

These engines come stock with all forged parts: piston rods, pushrods, crankshaft cam, and the block is super hard,

You'll need lots of new bolts and eliminate the entire exhaust gas recerculation, drop in a 150 nitrous shot and you have a top class race engine of around 350 HP in a 2000 LB car. Better build a roll cage.

A pre-smog MGB makes 98HP, all day long. 120HP is not a stretch. Mine makes 140HP. No cutting, welding, fabbing or such. I get between 150K and 200K miles on an engine. I've built bunches for my customers. No comebacks.

If you want a hot MGB, go the BOP/Rover V8 route. $3K will get you a reliable 250HP, engine weight is the same and it's pretty much a bolt in. I'm building one now. Or the Mazda rotary route. I've seen the big iron V8 conversions, mucho modding, and they don't go around corners well, but they do give a thrill when accelerating. If that's your bag, go for it.

Another cool engine would be the Ford 2L OHC BDA engines. Not much modding to fit but they do cost a few $$$$.

The 2TC has 70HP stock. You will $pend a few clam$ to get big HP, plus all the fiddling and futzing to make it work. Nitrous is great for hole shots, but IMHO not worth the expense.

I have pared all the weight from my '68 OTS that I can and still have a pleasant long distance tourer, wife must be comfortable, and the wet weight is 2378 lbs, no top. 2000 lbs? Very expen$ive.

Basically, run watcha brung. :naughty:

Not a simple task but workable. i've seen a 454 in a MGB Corvette rear and mustang front.

The 2tc is a larger engine by size and shape. the Oil pan is such that the engine be placed closer to the firewall. Some cutting of the floor boards and firewall and loss of the heater box. You'll have to make your own motor mounts and transmission mounts, new drive shaft is also necessary.

The pluses are amuch more reliable engine with cheaper parts, I have a 10.5:1 compression bored and stroked 2tc fast cam electronic ignition with Mallory Multispark ignition. around 200 HP vs. MG with 85 HP not 120.

Also have dual Weber carb set up You'll ned to fabricate an exhaust header.

These engines are used extensively for racing. Parts are readily available.
One wire alternators, distributors, header flange ready for fabricating your own header, weber carb set up in either 32/36 progressive, DCOE single or dual carb manifolds, multiple cam set ups etc.

I am still in process of fabricating a new waterpump(aluminum is stock) because the alternator was moved to the other side because of interference with the rack and pinion. This necessitated the manufacture of new alternator brackets and designing new waterpump outlet.

These engines come stock with all forged parts: piston rods, pushrods, crankshaft cam, and the block is super hard,

You'll need lots of new bolts and eliminate the entire exhaust gas recerculation, drop in a 150 nitrous shot and you have a top class race engine of around 350 HP in a 2000 LB car. Better build a roll cage.
Heck, thanks for the info. Now I am not sure about the swap? My main deal with the MGB engine in it now is the carbs ( had them rebuilt ) not on yet and also the fuel pump. I dont know what the heck to do point type pump or electronic. Su,s or single side draft carb. Just dont want to have to mess with it every other day.

Scott

A pre-smog MGB makes 98HP, all day long. 120HP is not a stretch. Mine makes 140HP. No cutting, welding, fabbing or such. I get between 150K and 200K miles on an engine. I've built bunches for my customers. No comebacks.

If you want a hot MGB, go the BOP/Rover V8 route. $3K will get you a reliable 250HP, engine weight is the same and it's pretty much a bolt in. I'm building one now. Or the Mazda rotary route. I've seen the big iron V8 conversions, mucho modding, and they don't go around corners well, but they do give a thrill when accelerating. If that's your bag, go for it.

Another cool engine would be the Ford 2L OHC BDA engines. Not much modding to fit but they do cost a few $$$$.

The 2TC has 70HP stock. You will $pend a few clam$ to get big HP, plus all the fiddling and futzing to make it work. Nitrous is great for hole shots, but IMHO not worth the expense.

I have pared all the weight from my '68 OTS that I can and still have a pleasant long distance tourer, wife must be comfortable, and the wet weight is 2378 lbs, no top. 2000 lbs? Very expen$ive.

Basically, run watcha brung. :naughty:
I appreciate this info also, I am leaning to keeping the MGB engine in it now, the motor was rebuilt about 20yrs ago and still has good compression. Me and my old buddy used to drive it around years ago and he just parked it in his parents garage for all these years. Im a little worried about the gaskets and oil seals on the motor from sitting so long but it turns over great and has good compression.
About the carbs I am not sure what the heck to do? I have been told to go Su's again and then again I have heard a single weber???? Electronic fuel pump or point style fuel pump? And what pump with which carb??? What do you think? Thanks for the reply.

Scott

Scott,

A Weber DCO series carb is very cool but overkill for a stock engine. It's not easy to dial in but once done, it's great. No real HP gains though. The Weber downdraft is OK but I generally remove it and return the car to SU's. The stock SU's are very good carbs. Once set, leave them alone. If the engine starts running poorly, check compression, point gap and timing. The carb adjustments do NOT move, so no need to adjust them.

Here is my suggestions for a great running street car that you won't have you under the bonnet all the time. There are more parts to the car than the engine to fail, so there is more to do. I'm only going to deal with a tune-up here. You should, actually must, have a workshop manual to continue.

1 - Engine must have even compression, good oil pressure, no vacuum
leaks, new belt(s) and hoses, thermostat, clean radiator
yada yada yada
2 - Adjust the valves per the manual
3 - If installed, insure the smog equipment is correctly configured and
completely operational. If removed, insure that all the connections
are correctly terminated
4 - Be sure the distributor mechanical advance is free and lubed
5 - Be sure the distributor vacuum advance is operational and the line is
insatlled and open.
6 - Install a Pertronix ignition module in the distributor
7 - Install a new distributor cap and rotor
8 - Install new spark plugs, correct heat range, and wires.
I use NGK BP6ES plugs
9 - Insure the coil and connections are good, no cracks or leaks.
10- Set the timing statically
11- Install an in-line fuel filter at the tank before the fuel pump.
12- Replace the points style fuel pump with a new SU solid state pump
13- Rebuild the carbs, insure the throttle shafts don't leak and that
the needle and jet are replaced, using the correct needle. Also
insure that the N&S are replaced and the float level is correctly set.
14- Preinstall a pair of K&N air filters, oiling them first. Set aside

Assuming you have a manual for the car, preset the carb jets and idle screws per the manual. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature. You may have to screw in the idle jets some to get it to "idle". Using a timing light, set the timing per the manual and then rev the motor slowly to ~3000RPM and insure the timing advances smoothly. If all that is good, set the carbs per the book, install the air filters and go for a drive. Pretty easy, yes?

DISCLAIMER:
1/ If any of the above suggestions are not followed, all bets are off as to your success.

2/ This is an armchair instruction, aka from a distance, and all the variables are unable to be identified and discussed. The workshop manual is an invaluable tool, as is common sense. Don't do anything that doesn't make sense, don't use unneccesary force and think everything through before attempting an operation.

3/ I have no responsibilty, express nor implied, for the operation of, maintenance of, repair of or any factors not mentioned for any motor vehicle that I have not personally and physically been involved with and no consideration has been exchanged.

Good luck and keep the shiny side up.

Scott,

A Weber DCO series carb is very cool but overkill for a stock engine. It's not easy to dial in but once done, it's great. No real HP gains though. The Weber downdraft is OK but I generally remove it and return the car to SU's. The stock SU's are very good carbs. Once set, leave them alone. If the engine starts running poorly, check compression, point gap and timing. The carb adjustments do NOT move, so no need to adjust them.

Here is my suggestions for a great running street car that you won't have you under the bonnet all the time. There are more parts to the car than the engine to fail, so there is more to do. I'm only going to deal with a tune-up here. You should, actually must, have a workshop manual to continue.

1 - Engine must have even compression, good oil pressure, no vacuum
leaks, new belt(s) and hoses, thermostat, clean radiator
yada yada yada
2 - Adjust the valves per the manual
3 - If installed, insure the smog equipment is correctly configured and
completely operational. If removed, insure that all the connections
are correctly terminated
4 - Be sure the distributor mechanical advance is free and lubed
5 - Be sure the distributor vacuum advance is operational and the line is
insatlled and open.
6 - Install a Pertronix ignition module in the distributor
7 - Install a new distributor cap and rotor
8 - Install new spark plugs, correct heat range, and wires.
I use NGK BP6ES plugs
9 - Insure the coil and connections are good, no cracks or leaks.
10- Set the timing statically
11- Install an in-line fuel filter at the tank before the fuel pump.
12- Replace the points style fuel pump with a new SU solid state pump
13- Rebuild the carbs, insure the throttle shafts don't leak and that
the needle and jet are replaced, using the correct needle. Also
insure that the N&S are replaced and the float level is correctly set.
14- Preinstall a pair of K&N air filters, oiling them first. Set aside

Assuming you have a manual for the car, preset the carb jets and idle screws per the manual. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature. You may have to screw in the idle jets some to get it to "idle". Using a timing light, set the timing per the manual and then rev the motor slowly to ~3000RPM and insure the timing advances smoothly. If all that is good, set the carbs per the book, install the air filters and go for a drive. Pretty easy, yes?

DISCLAIMER:
1/ If any of the above suggestions are not followed, all bets are off as to your success.

2/ This is an armchair instruction, aka from a distance, and all the variables are unable to be identified and discussed. The workshop manual is an invaluable tool, as is common sense. Don't do anything that doesn't make sense, don't use unneccesary force and think everything through before attempting an operation.

3/ I have no responsibilty, express nor implied, for the operation of, maintenance of, repair of or any factors not mentioned for any motor vehicle that I have not personally and physically been involved with and no consideration has been exchanged.

Good luck and keep the shiny side up.

Scott,

A Weber DCO series carb is very cool but overkill for a stock engine. It's not easy to dial in but once done, it's great. No real HP gains though. The Weber downdraft is OK but I generally remove it and return the car to SU's. The stock SU's are very good carbs. Once set, leave them alone. If the engine starts running poorly, check compression, point gap and timing. The carb adjustments do NOT move, so no need to adjust them.

Here is my suggestions for a great running street car that you won't have you under the bonnet all the time. There are more parts to the car than the engine to fail, so there is more to do. I'm only going to deal with a tune-up here. You should, actually must, have a workshop manual to continue.

1 - Engine must have even compression, good oil pressure, no vacuum
leaks, new belt(s) and hoses, thermostat, clean radiator
yada yada yada
2 - Adjust the valves per the manual
3 - If installed, insure the smog equipment is correctly configured and
completely operational. If removed, insure that all the connections
are correctly terminated
4 - Be sure the distributor mechanical advance is free and lubed
5 - Be sure the distributor vacuum advance is operational and the line is
insatlled and open.
6 - Install a Pertronix ignition module in the distributor
7 - Install a new distributor cap and rotor
8 - Install new spark plugs, correct heat range, and wires.
I use NGK BP6ES plugs
9 - Insure the coil and connections are good, no cracks or leaks.
10- Set the timing statically
11- Install an in-line fuel filter at the tank before the fuel pump.
12- Replace the points style fuel pump with a new SU solid state pump
13- Rebuild the carbs, insure the throttle shafts don't leak and that
the needle and jet are replaced, using the correct needle. Also
insure that the N&S are replaced and the float level is correctly set.
14- Preinstall a pair of K&N air filters, oiling them first. Set aside

Assuming you have a manual for the car, preset the carb jets and idle screws per the manual. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature. You may have to screw in the idle jets some to get it to "idle". Using a timing light, set the timing per the manual and then rev the motor slowly to ~3000RPM and insure the timing advances smoothly. If all that is good, set the carbs per the book, install the air filters and go for a drive. Pretty easy, yes?

DISCLAIMER:
1/ If any of the above suggestions are not followed, all bets are off as to your success.

2/ This is an armchair instruction, aka from a distance, and all the variables are unable to be identified and discussed. The workshop manual is an invaluable tool, as is common sense. Don't do anything that doesn't make sense, don't use unneccesary force and think everything through before attempting an operation.

3/ I have no responsibilty, express nor implied, for the operation of, maintenance of, repair of or any factors not mentioned for any motor vehicle that I have not personally and physically been involved with and no consideration has been exchanged.

Good luck and keep the shiny side up.
Thanks a mill for the help "really". I have done most of what you have said just need to put on the fuel pump and clean out the gas tank, replace some lines and clean lines, then see how It starts and runs. Thanks much again.

Take care
Scott

I've gone all those routes (Webers, cams, electronic ignition, hi performance carbs, balh blah. in the last 25 yrs of driving a B. Nothing does much good for the thing.
I'm doing a GM V6 conversion. It's fairly cheap and gives a modern. reliable drivetrain. It does not require any mod to a rubber bumper car. I bought a shabby but lo mileage firebird v6 with std trans and a conversion kit. It went together easily, and the total cost was about $2000.