Car Stalls without warning but restarts after, please any help would be great

Ok here is a very weird issue I have never seen before and am hoping someone has a suggestion or two:

About two weeks ago I was on a 45 minute trip home from my families house and my 97 accord 4cyl sohc just dies as I am doing about 50 miles an hour. The guages just drop to zero but my stereo is still on with no change and my fan motor is blowing. At first I truly thought "oh shit there goes my timing belt" but I pull it over pop the hood and try to start it back up and sure enough it starts fine and doesn't do the problem again for two days.

Two days later I am at a stop light and the guages go dead again with the stereo still on and this time I did not have the fan going to tell if that was still working. When I try to start it this time the engine sounds flooded, it starts but you can tell its got to much gas the engine as if the fuel injectors still shot a couple extra rotations of gas before the engine went out. Start it once, it dies. Start it twice and it runs for 2 seconds very rough and then dies. Start it the third time and it starts right up and idle drops to 750 and remains absolutely constant.

Then the same issue happens a couple of more times while I am driving on a highway but I just pop it into nuetral and it cranks back up with minimal speed loss. Each time the guages act funny prior to the engine turning off. They drop once then resume, then drop a second time when the engine dies but every time the engine fires back up and runs like a champ.

Today I took the car to honda for a recall on the ignition switch (sure sounds like the issue I am having by reading over the recall) and they replace the ignition switch (supposedly) give me a free oil change, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor button for free (not bad) and on my way home guess what.....it happens again. So I stop by at this point and get new battery terminals just to make sure its not this and do replace them since afterall there was a little corrosion on the terminals. Once again tonight the car died on me yet again while I was making a left hand turn on a 4 lane road (almost got creamed). However 1 second later the car started right back up without a hitch. You can get the exact same issue I am having if you quickly turn you key from 2 to 1 1/2 position. The engine will die but electronics stay working fine.


Any clues or do you think honda failed to replace the ignition switch? I used to have 3 cars but am in the process of getting married and as we all know guys.........women don't want anything else coming before them (sad sad day) so my other 2 cars had to go. I need this car primarily for a 10 mile drive to work right now and am not that scared of it besides when making turns on large intersections. Any help would be appreciated greatly. And one more note to add is I had a honda tech do a full ecu status scan and everything reported fine with no voltage offsets or spikes in readings. I have been the only mechanic under this hood since I got her so I know everything is set correct just don't know where to start with the electrical issues. Thanks guys

Well, it is either fuel or ignition. I gather you checked to see if there any stored codes from the ECU and there were none, correct? The fan motor running indicates that you have a good connection to the battery because it is always powered and turns on based on temperature. When you say the gauges drop/act funny: what gauges? I think Honda changed the switch because they have no reason to not to. They would probably bill Honda for the work. I am starting to think you may have a ignition coil or igniter problem. They both tend to be intermittant before they die forever. I know the coil and igniter cost money, but they do go bad more often some of the other items. And without ECL codes and being intermittant, I would probably start there. Keep us advised of your progress.

no its not either really, if you read closely to the post you will see the tac and speedo needles dropped complete instead of winding down if the engine stalls out. I am really thinking honda did not replace the ignition switch like they were supposed to or at least thats what this work order says they did.

The systems just lie way too close to the same symptoms for the ignition in the first place which was burned contacts and loss of contact briefly. I mean everything else in the car doesnt even lose power a bit, no dimming or loss in sound system. I would really think the module but even that wouldn't make sense due to the fact the car operates better when warm than when cold. The car only cuts off between the first 5-45 minutes of driving. Has not cut off on me when I have driven long trips after the initial cut off in the start of the trip.

If the fuel system was clogged or at least starved the engine should act grouchy and pout for a few seconds before it dies from lack of gas. Dont you think? I am going to pull the column apart tomorrow and look at the module for myself. I know the oe original is white and the new ones for the replacement are blue so this should take me that long if I can get the column apart easy.

If anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

Honda also says on this sheet for ignition replacement a full obd scan were completed meaning absolutely no codes and even when the engine cuts off it does not shoot a code before or after, sometimes she will cut off for a split second (engine hesitates and both tac and speedo needle drop but then come back to life quickly) and within 1-2 minutes the car shuts off with radio, fan, and lights still on. Couldn't be the module since it always stars right back up. I checked the Vss connections and they look good also.

Found the problem:

I took my car in last Friday for the ignition recall (08/19) and the work order that I signed off on shows they replaced the ignition switch as part of the recall.

Today I said screw it and took the column apart to check to make sure they replaced the ignition switch like they were supposed to. GUESS WHAT........
THEY DIDNT

Anyway, talking with corp service tomorrow and going to see the service manager to see why in the hell they lied and put my life at stake over this. If you have had a recall on the ignition please recheck it. Easy way like the first sign I saw was that the screws had not been scratched like they would anytime you remove a factory part. DO NOT GO TO FLOW HONDA IN WINSTON SALEM NC.......SERVICE WILL KILL YA

Wow glad you found it, but what the hell were they thinking? I hate when service departments skimp on recalls. They are always out to save a buck...this is why I despise dealerships. Good luck with them. I'd get in touch with Honda and possibly the better buisness beareau (sp?) not just this dealership.

In your first post you did not mention tach and speedometer dropping to zero. You just said the guages dropped to zero and which I guess would relate to a loss of voltage which could be a ignition switch problem. And we don't always scratch screws when we remove them if we have good tools. After you change the switch again or whatever, tell us if it fixes the problem. And if it does, get in contact with the District Honda Rep.

Yeah, I already got in touch with the Dealership Owner and wrote a letter to the NHSTA to let them know whats up. I will see tomorrow when I take the part back. I am not piecing my car back together so they can take it apart. I just hate the fact you can't even get a recall done right. I mean you would think these guys cared about safety but in reality come on........my main fear is what if this happens to a mom with kids in the car because they didn't replace the part. I mean where is the honesty and commitment from Flow Honda of Winston Salem NC.

I know where I am not buying a car from next time!

Hey,
I have a 97 prelude sh and it seems as if I am having the same exact probelm. I have the SAME symtoms. Do you think they accord and prelude have the same, recalled ignition switch?
I actaully thought it was something else as it started happing after I did a bunch of mod to the engine. I swapped out the stock ECU with an AEM. Got the AEM fuel rail and regulator and some stage 2 cams in.
What do you think?

hey bro, I would definitely say its the ignition switch if the systems are the same. I took my car entirely apart (and I mean entirely apart) to see the electrical system breakdown and if the tach, speedo, and engine all cut off while leaving the other accs on I would say the ignition switch is def to blame since its the only possibility at that point. I would call your local honda tomorrow and give them the model and year of your lude to see if they have a recall on the ignition. If not this may have to come out of pocket. Now to me it sounds like your mechanically inclined so this may not cost anything at that. You can still remove the old switch and clean it up really well and it should last another 100K or so. I mean a new ignition switch will probably not fail again but if your only going to have the car for another 100K or less I would just clean the switch and call it even. If you need pics of the switch and what to clean let me know. If its recalled dont worry about it, just make sure honda actually does it so you don't end up tearing your car apart.

raging ron, I just looked it up and your car was recalled just this year actually

1997 Honda Prelude NHTSA Recall ID Number: 05V025000
Recall Date: JAN 28, 2005
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Recall Date: MAY 16, 2002
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Potential Units Affected: 1000000
Summary: ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence: WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

take it in for a swap out free of charge, just make sure and tell them not to touch anything else. They are bad about looking around your engine bay. If they give you grief about the aftermarket parts let me know so I can forward you something.

Also the lower ball joints were recalled if you haven't already swapped them out, never hurts to get a free upgrade.

my buddys car doin the same thing..he can be driving down the road and it will just die..light and radio stay on..dont know bout gauges droppin..he's got a 87 honda accord lxi...anybody think they could help with letting me know how to fix it would be great..

Ok here is a very weird issue I have never seen before and am hoping someone has a suggestion or two:

About two weeks ago I was on a 45 minute trip home from my families house and my 97 accord 4cyl sohc just dies as I am doing about 50 miles an hour. The guages just drop to zero but my stereo is still on with no change and my fan motor is blowing. At first I truly thought "oh shit there goes my timing belt" but I pull it over pop the hood and try to start it back up and sure enough it starts fine and doesn't do the problem again for two days.

Two days later I am at a stop light and the guages go dead again with the stereo still on and this time I did not have the fan going to tell if that was still working. When I try to start it this time the engine sounds flooded, it starts but you can tell its got to much gas the engine as if the fuel injectors still shot a couple extra rotations of gas before the engine went out. Start it once, it dies. Start it twice and it runs for 2 seconds very rough and then dies. Start it the third time and it starts right up and idle drops to 750 and remains absolutely constant.

Then the same issue happens a couple of more times while I am driving on a highway but I just pop it into nuetral and it cranks back up with minimal speed loss. Each time the guages act funny prior to the engine turning off. They drop once then resume, then drop a second time when the engine dies but every time the engine fires back up and runs like a champ.

Today I took the car to honda for a recall on the ignition switch (sure sounds like the issue I am having by reading over the recall) and they replace the ignition switch (supposedly) give me a free oil change, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor button for free (not bad) and on my way home guess what.....it happens again. So I stop by at this point and get new battery terminals just to make sure its not this and do replace them since afterall there was a little corrosion on the terminals. Once again tonight the car died on me yet again while I was making a left hand turn on a 4 lane road (almost got creamed). However 1 second later the car started right back up without a hitch. You can get the exact same issue I am having if you quickly turn you key from 2 to 1 1/2 position. The engine will die but electronics stay working fine.


Any clues or do you think honda failed to replace the ignition switch? I used to have 3 cars but am in the process of getting married and as we all know guys.........women don't want anything else coming before them (sad sad day) so my other 2 cars had to go. I need this car primarily for a 10 mile drive to work right now and am not that scared of it besides when making turns on large intersections. Any help would be appreciated greatly. And one more note to add is I had a honda tech do a full ecu status scan and everything reported fine with no voltage offsets or spikes in readings. I have been the only mechanic under this hood since I got her so I know everything is set correct just don't know where to start with the electrical issues. Thanks guys

St. Louis Reply: I had the same exact thing would happen to my 94 Accord. It would stall out immediately, with no preemptive hesitation, with the tach dropping to zero, then back up, then to zero for good, but would start up either immediately or within a few minutes. A mechanic friend of mine suggested replacing the ignition module, I did, and it hasn't stalled since (over two years ago). Don't know for sure, but I wouldn't be suprised if your module wasn't replaced, maybe they just checked it and it ran fine due to the intermittent nature. Good luck.