Smelling gasoline

My dad's '99 CV S model with 206k has been giving a DTC of 0442 on and off for about a year and a half now. The guys at AZ told him that it's usually the gas cap that causes this issue. Every time that he replaces the cap the code does not reappear for some period of time. He has replaced the cap twice so far that I know of. Just recently I began to smell gas inside of the car, especially when the moon roof is open. There is no smell of gas under the hood or around the sides of the car and no leakage off any kind on the ground. I just happened to open the trunk while checking for a leak and noticed a faint smell of gas when the car was parked in the driveway. I'm sure that when the moon roof is open that it's creating some sort of negative presure inside the vehicle which is causing the fumes to be pulled into the people compartment. Any ideas where I should begin to look for the leak?
Thanks for your time and consideration.

Look at the cannister under the rear of the vehicle. There is a vent hose that goes up inside the frame might be plugged #!1 or the cannister could be saturated #2, or the veny vallve could be malfunctioning #3.

How would I be able to tell if the cannister is saturated? I've heard that overfilling of the tank can lead to gas getting into the cannister. I know that my dad tries to get the tank full to the top of the filler neck when filling up. Is this an item that I can pick up from a bone yard?

Overfilling will destroy the canister everytime. It's not designed to handle raw fuel. When filling the tank, when the pump shuts off, it's full. Boneyard is like a box of chocolates, ya never know what you're gonna git. Get one at the dealer, install it, and consider it a lesson learned.

If you remove the cannister it will be heavy if it is saturated. It is normally fairly light in weight.

Never got around to checking into the saturated cannister being the problem as the weather turned colder and I only have a driveway to work on the vehicle. Turns out that the gasoline smell has gradually gotten much worse. My dad filled the tank a few days back and I noticed there was some sign of leakage on the the bumper cover and inside/around the rear of the wheel well. Upon closer inspection, the road dirt on the gas fill pipe is dark from gasoline saturation. Is there some kind of gasket or seal up against the inner sheetmetal of the quarter panel that might be deteriorated enough to leak? The pipe is not wet all of the way to the tank, so I'm sure that it's coming from around the filler neck area. Has anyone had this problem before? The only other thing that I can think of is maybe a rock or something got flung up from the road and punctured the line. Thanks again for your time and consideration. You guys/gals out there are invaluable!

A hole in the filler neck will set the P0442 and give you a fuel odor. Might want to peek around in there and see what you can find.

The filler neck has a small gasket between the metal and the fuel door well. I don't think that is the problem though. You can remove the 4 little bolts and remove the clamp on the rubber hose and look for any signs of rust on the metal part. Usually the filler hose will deteriorate and allow gasoline to seep through thew hose without actually having a hole to see. Look carefully at it for anything that is not smooth where the rubber hose meets the neck.

While pouring some gas in the car from a small can, I could see the pipe start to get wet on the underside of the pipe in very close proximity to the rubber gasket on the inside of the fuel well. Can't say if it's the pipe or the gasket at this time. The guy at the local Ford dealership parts department said that they sell a fair amount of fill pipes which leads me to believe that the pipe has deteriorated enough to leak through. Found a used rust free pipe from a bone yard in AZ for $40 including shipping, which is a far cry better than Ford's $283.72 including tax. Once the pipe arrives, I will replace it and let you know what I've found out. Thanks for all of the advice/suggestions.

While pouring some gas in the car from a small can, I could see the pipe start to get wet on the underside of the pipe in very close proximity to the rubber gasket on the inside of the fuel well. Can't say if it's the pipe or the gasket at this time. The guy at the local Ford dealership parts department said that they sell a fair amount of fill pipes which leads me to believe that the pipe has deteriorated enough to leak through. Found a used rust free pipe from a bone yard in AZ for $40 including shipping, which is a far cry better than Ford's $283.72 including tax. Once the pipe arrives, I will replace it and let you know what I've found out. Thanks for all of the advice/suggestions.
Remember a piece of radiator hose isn't rated for gas and will get stiff if you replace the hose use OEM hose.

Tried putting some fuel in the car today and a fair amount of it was spilling out onto the ground. Upon closer inspection, there is a rather large crack on the underside of the pipe approximately 1/2" from the inner part of the quarter panel wall. Got the car home for a closer look and noticed some slight mud spray on the inside of the gas cap. Took a flashlight, opened the check valve flap for a view down the pipe and discovered a bunch of sand sitting on the fairly horizontal section of the pipe. Glad that I wasn't able to get more than a 1/2 gallon into the tank so as not to have forced the rest of the sand in, but I think it's too late. The car has been gradually taking longer and longer to start over the last week, taking up to as much as 3 seconds, and I'm thinking that it's due to the crud plugging the fuel pump screen, or worse yet, fuel pump damage. So my question is, has anyone tackled the job of dropping the tank, and how bad a job is it? The fsm makes it sound like a breeze. BTW, we live about a quarter mile up a dirt road. Can't believe that I couldn't even see a crack in the pipe a week ago and now it's large enough to have caused a much larger problem. :banghead:

The tank is fairly easy to take out if it is empty. Problem is the mounting bolts will possibly break or come out of the j nuts. Good thing is the dealer sells longer ones that make it easy to mount back. Just be careful on the fuel lines and the vacuum switches on top of the tank. Those are easily broken when trying to remove the line.

Tried putting some fuel in the car today and a fair amount of it was spilling out onto the ground. Upon closer inspection, there is a rather large crack on the underside of the pipe approximately 1/2" from the inner part of the quarter panel wall. Got the car home for a closer look and noticed some slight mud spray on the inside of the gas cap. Took a flashlight, opened the check valve flap for a view down the pipe and discovered a bunch of sand sitting on the fairly horizontal section of the pipe. Glad that I wasn't able to get more than a 1/2 gallon into the tank so as not to have forced the rest of the sand in, but I think it's too late. The car has been gradually taking longer and longer to start over the last week, taking up to as much as 3 seconds, and I'm thinking that it's due to the crud plugging the fuel pump screen, or worse yet, fuel pump damage. So my question is, has anyone tackled the job of dropping the tank, and how bad a job is it? The fsm makes it sound like a breeze. BTW, we live about a quarter mile up a dirt road. Can't believe that I couldn't even see a crack in the pipe a week ago and now it's large enough to have caused a much larger problem. :banghead:
Depending on the amount of fuel in it the tank is heavy. Have the vehicle on four jack stands. Use a floor jack under the tank with a piece of 2x12 or other board on it to support the tank. After the two bolts are loose start spraying with P-B Blaster the night before loosening the nuts. Lower the tank slightly then reach up and disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connections. Then drop the fuel tank it takes two one to hold the tank and the other one to lower the jack. An easy job on a hoist but harder on a floor jacks. Really not bad if you have help.

Wound up replacing the fuel tank fill pipe today. Was really a very simple job. Upon inspection of the old pipe, I didn't notice any road dirt down around and on top of the check valve at the bottom but did notice (as previously posted) some dirt in the area around the top where the neck had nearly rotted off. This led me to believe that with any luck not too much dirt had gotten introduced into the tank, so I decided not to pull the tank at this time (the driveway is still cold!). I did change the fuel filter. Whoever had changed it in the past had put a hose clamp around it to hold it in its cradle on the frame. Not sure how it comes from the factory. As soon as I started to loosen the clamp it started dripping fuel. Got a little optimistic in thinking that maybe this was the reason why it was hesitating upon starting, but I was wrong. The engine used to start as soon as it cranked over but now it takes about 2-3 seconds worth of cranking. Once it starts it runs as smooth as if it was new. The plugs have 11.5K miles on them. I'm wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is starting to go by not keeping pressure in the rail when the engine is turned off. What are the symptoms when the regulator fails? What kind of test equipment do I need to check the fuel pressure? Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Wound up replacing the fuel tank fill pipe today. Was really a very simple job. Upon inspection of the old pipe, I didn't notice any road dirt down around and on top of the check valve at the bottom but did notice (as previously posted) some dirt in the area around the top where the neck had nearly rotted off. This led me to believe that with any luck not too much dirt had gotten introduced into the tank, so I decided not to pull the tank at this time (the driveway is still cold!). I did change the fuel filter. Whoever had changed it in the past had put a hose clamp around it to hold it in its cradle on the frame. Not sure how it comes from the factory. As soon as I started to loosen the clamp it started dripping fuel. Got a little optimistic in thinking that maybe this was the reason why it was hesitating upon starting, but I was wrong. The engine used to start as soon as it cranked over but now it takes about 2-3 seconds worth of cranking. Once it starts it runs as smooth as if it was new. The plugs have 11.5K miles on them. I'm wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is starting to go by not keeping pressure in the rail when the engine is turned off. What are the symptoms when the regulator fails? What kind of test equipment do I need to check the fuel pressure? Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_3440.htm
Try Advance Auto or Auto Zone for a loaner. The fuel pump should have an internal check valve. The dirt may have got in this valve and it won't close completely.
http://www.tooltopia.com/ Sells check valves for the fuel line. Search fuel check valve.

Picked up a fuel pressure test kit from AZ's loan a tool program. Once connected, I checked for key on/engine off pressure and got no pressure indication on the guage after 3 attempts. What I did notice is that the fuel pump relay is only energized for a period of about 1 second, and that would be stretching it. Is that the normal duration? The engine started after 2-3 seconds of cranking, at which time the pressure on the guage came up to 29-30 psi and was steady. Upon turning the engine off, the fuel pressure immediately goes back to zero. I went through this cycle several times and the pressure always goes back to zero. I noticed that if the key is turned to the on position immediately after turning the engine off, the pressure will come back up to 29-30 psi, but only as long as the relay is energized, which is about 1 second. If I wait a few seconds to turn the key back to the on position, no pressure is indicated. If I cycle the switch from off to on several times, the pressure will gradually (in steps) come back up to 29-30 psi. It sure sounds to me like the advice of a stuck open check valve in the pump is right on the money. What are your thoughts fellow AF members? The key on/engine off pressure is also lower than spec by 5 psi (should be 35-45). If I drop the tank and replace the pump, is it possible to clean the crud (get all of it) out of the bottom of the tank? Thanks again.

Picked up a fuel pressure test kit from AZ's loan a tool program. Once connected, I checked for key on/engine off pressure and got no pressure indication on the guage after 3 attempts. What I did notice is that the fuel pump relay is only energized for a period of about 1 second, and that would be stretching it. Is that the normal duration? The engine started after 2-3 seconds of cranking, at which time the pressure on the guage came up to 29-30 psi and was steady. Upon turning the engine off, the fuel pressure immediately goes back to zero. I went through this cycle several times and the pressure always goes back to zero. I noticed that if the key is turned to the on position immediately after turning the engine off, the pressure will come back up to 29-30 psi, but only as long as the relay is energized, which is about 1 second. If I wait a few seconds to turn the key back to the on position, no pressure is indicated. If I cycle the switch from off to on several times, the pressure will gradually (in steps) come back up to 29-30 psi. It sure sounds to me like the advice of a stuck open check valve in the pump is right on the money. What are your thoughts fellow AF members? The key on/engine off pressure is also lower than spec by 5 psi (should be 35-45). If I drop the tank and replace the pump, is it possible to clean the crud (get all of it) out of the bottom of the tank? Thanks again.
You should be able to get most of it out.

Have been looking into purchasing a fuel pump or the entire pump/sender assembly. Found a complete Airtex unit on RockAuto for under $80 (a closeout unit which normally sells for about $150). Did some research and found many bad reviews for Airtex. The same goes for Bosch, Delphi, Carter, and others. RockAuto also has the Motorcraft for about $290 compared to the dealership price of $400 plus tax. Still, Motorcraft only offers a 1 year warranty. Seems like alot of money to spend without a longer warranty. What are the chances of pulling the old assembly out and being able to clear the check valve of the dirt that is causing it to stick open? What are the chances of picking up a reliable unit from a salvage yard, as I have located one for $75 from a reliable source of rust free parts in AZ? The labor costs are not an issue as I will be doing the work myself, but I do not want to have to keep repeating the job because of faulty aftermarket parts. I'm thinking that maybe just installing an in-line check valve, like rhandwar eluded to, may be the way to go for now until the original pump fails, if it ever does. The engine runs fine with the old pump, just doesn't start up without a few seconds worth of cranking.

Just couldn't get the idea of a complete fuel pump assembly for $77.79 + $9.23 for shipping out of my head, so I gave Airtex tech support a call to find out what the problem is with their pumps. Spoke with a gentleman named Richard, who was in no way associated with sales, but was kind enough to take time out of his busy day to speak with me for about 20 minutes. This is what I was able to find out.
I told him that I'd seen many bad reviews on Airtex fuel pumps. He started out by telling me that anything that is man-made is subject to failure, and at that point, even though I agreed, I thought I was going to get nothing but a big runaround. Then he went on to explain that Airtex has been in business for 79 years in the same location, which is Fairfield, IL. He also explained that they would not be in business if they didn't make a quality product. He then, without any prior info from me, began to explain that the only fuel pump problems that they have ever encountered that would signify any kind of a problem were with GM products, specifically '98-02 full size and SUVs. Turns out, in fact, that all of the terrible reviews that I had found researching the Airtex pumps were indeed from individuals with Blazers, Jimmys, Yukons, Tahoes, etc. Richard then went into detail explaining that GM had under engineered the fuel pump requirement for these vehicles, in that they were trying to get 60 psi out of a pump designed to provide 40 psi, which was burning out the pumps. Turns out that once GM admitted to the problem and had just enough of a mediocre recall to cover their butts, that Airtex was the first manufacturer of fuel pumps to upgrade their product to meet system requirements, while all of the others, including GM, were trying to get by with a less than satisfactory modification to the wiring and connectors. I then explained to him that I had found one of their fuel pump assemblies for under $80, and he was flabbergasted at the price. Turns out that this assembly from RockAuto, of which there were only 2 remaining, is a wholesaler closeout in a private label package. Basically what that means is that RockAuto acquired it through the buyout of a warehouse, which is referred to as distressed inventory, and that private label packaging means that it is in a plain jane box, not a fancy package made to sit on the shelf and look pretty to draw customer attention, so they are liquidating this inventory. And no, this isn't a unit model that is being phased out for some new and improved model. This is the one and only model that Airtex is, and has been, manufacturing for the CV. One thing that I didn't care for was the fact that RockAuto was only offering a 30 day warranty because of the liquidation. I mentioned this to Richard and he assured me that Airtex's number one goal is customer satisifaction, and that if I incurred any problem with the pump that Airtex would honor it with a 1 year warranty, same as all of the others. Needless to say, I went ahead and ordered the assembly and cannot wait to get it installed. Made in the USA........ I have no regrets. Airtex even has their own plant in IL where they do all of the injection blown molding of the plastic parts used in the assembly.
I know that this was a rather long post, but did not want to be giving out false information regarding Airtex products. Keep in mind that these same individuals were having problems with Carter, Delphi, Bosch, etc. pumps, some of them having replaced 6 pumps within 100K miles. So it only makes great sense that all of these manufacturers couldn't be putting out junk pumps. The problem is with the design of the fuel system in these particular GM models. Bottom line is that I hope that I did not give anyone a bad rap regarding Airtex, or any of the other manufacturers, as that was not my intention.
Here are a few tips regarding extending the life of your fuel pump:
1. These in tank fuel pumps are cooled by the fluid that they are pump. One of the worst things that you
do is to run out of gas, which causes major overheating and subsequent failure of the pump. I know,
as this happened to me many years ago.
2. Keeping the fuel level above 1/4 or higher does two things. One, it provides head pressure (from the
weight of the fuel) at the pump suction to prevent the pump from cavitating which will introduce air
bubbles into the pump resulting in poor cooling. Two, by keeping the level in the tank higher, you are
reducing the amount of condensation that forms in the tank and therefore minimizing the buildup of
corrosion particles that will foul the screen and pump.
3. Change the fuel filter at least once per year. When a fuel filter begins to become plugged with dirt it
creates added backpressure on the pump, which causes the pump to work that much harder with the
same, or a reduced amount of cooling, which results in overheating and reduced life.
I'm sure that there are other great tips, and hoping that anyone with other info will add them to this post. Thanks again fellow AF members!

Glad to see you did research. MOST of the problems with replacement GM pumps was the wiring harness going to the pump GM came out with a TSB to replace the wiring with an updated harness along with the pump. The connection was not a perfect fir=t and caused too much current drop to the pump so the pump was running too slow and burned out prematurely. Let us know how you make out.

so I gave Airtex tech support a call to find out what the problem is with their pumps. Spoke with a gentleman named Richard, who was in no way associated with sales, but was kind enough to take time out of his busy day to speak with me for about 20 minutes. This is what I was able to find out.
I told him that I'd seen many bad reviews on Airtex fuel pumps. He started out by telling me that anything that is man-made is subject to failure, and at that point, even though I agreed, I thought I was going to get nothing but a big runaround. Then he went on to explain that Airtex has been in business for 79 years in the same location, which is Fairfield, IL. He also explained that they would not be in business if they didn't make a quality product. He then, without any prior info from me, began to explain that the only fuel pump problems that they have ever encountered that would signify any kind of a problem were with GM products, specifically '98-02 full size and SUVs. Turns out, in fact, that all of the terrible reviews that I had found researching the Airtex pumps were indeed from individuals with Blazers, Jimmys, Yukons, Tahoes, etc. Richard then went into detail explaining that GM had under engineered the fuel pump requirement for these vehicles, in that they were trying to get 60 psi out of a pump designed to provide 40 psi, which was burning out the pumps. Turns out that once GM admitted to the problem and had just enough of a mediocre recall to cover their butts, that Airtex was the first manufacturer of fuel pumps to upgrade their product to meet system requirements, while all of the others, including GM, were trying to get by with a less than satisfactory modification to the wiring and connectors.

Good Luck My friend, I sincerely hope you have better luck with your Airtex Pump than I did with my THREE different Airtex pumps.

I bought My first Airtex Pump for my 2000 GMC Jimmy in October of 2007, that had the new connector, so I assume it was one of Airtex's new and improved designs. It was a Piece of SHIT, along with two more that I got as warranty replacements. I had 2 out of 3 fail in less than 6 months each and the most I got out of any Airtex pump was 22 months. Suffice to say, Airtex can lie all they want with their claim about their only problem is on GM SUV's, they can blame GM all they want, in the end, their pumps are JUNK.

Again I sincerely hope you have better luck, but if you don't, you're only out $80. I am out over $750 thanks to Airtex shit pumps.

Here is a Thread that I started that I hope you will take the time to read through, kinda long but good stuff.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=927589

Just got the sending unit seal in today, the pump came yesterday. The forecast is for 70-90% heavy storms for the next 3 days so will be putting the job off until mid week as I have only a driveway in which to perform the work. I'm thankful that at least it's an asphalt drive!

Hope that I did not offend anyone with the GM comments, as that was not my intention either. I'm not a diehard Ford individual, nor a diehard anything fan for that matter. I currently drive a '90 Toyota Corolla LE 1.6L stick with 210K miles that gets me 41-45mpg on every tank. My last car was a '92 1.9L Escort with stick that got me 38-40mpg on every tank, even with 287K miles on it. Had to can it when the trailing arm to the driver side rear wheel rotted off of the subframe, which resulted in some pretty tricking 3 wheel steering due to longitudinal wheel movement. Had 2 days to find a replacement vehicle and wound up with the Toyota because that's all that I could afford. I sincerely appologize if I have offended anyone with the GM comments. As I look back on my post, I would take it as slightly offensive if I were a GM aficionado. Let's face it, every manufacturer of automobiles has their problems, from the least to the most expensive. I will make a better effort to keep my opinions out of the posts in the future.

In all honesty, the driving force behind purchasing the Airtex product was definitely the price. Like I said, I just couldn't get it out of my head, which probably led me to believe anything that I was hearing from the rep. I will definitely post a future followup on the performance of the pump once its had a chance to get some miles of operation on it. Hopefully, everything will work out. I've been fortunate in this case where the pump did not fail and leave me stranded. It will be a completely different story if the new pump fails on the road or starts wailing away before it provides many miles of good service.

Just got the sending unit seal in today, the pump came yesterday. The forecast is for 70-90% heavy storms for the next 3 days so will be putting the job off until mid week as I have only a driveway in which to perform the work. I'm thankful that at least it's an asphalt drive!

Hope that I did not offend anyone with the GM comments, as that was not my intention either. I'm not a diehard Ford individual, nor a diehard anything fan for that matter. I currently drive a '90 Toyota Corolla LE 1.6L stick with 210K miles that gets me 41-45mpg on every tank. My last car was a '92 1.9L Escort with stick that got me 38-40mpg on every tank, even with 287K miles on it. Had to can it when the trailing arm to the driver side rear wheel rotted off of the subframe, which resulted in some pretty tricking 3 wheel steering due to longitudinal wheel movement. Had 2 days to find a replacement vehicle and wound up with the Toyota because that's all that I could afford. I sincerely appologize if I have offended anyone with the GM comments. As I look back on my post, I would take it as slightly offensive if I were a GM aficionado. Let's face it, every manufacturer of automobiles has their problems, from the least to the most expensive. I will make a better effort to keep my opinions out of the posts in the future.

In all honesty, the driving force behind purchasing the Airtex product was definitely the price. Like I said, I just couldn't get it out of my head, which probably led me to believe anything that I was hearing from the rep. I will definitely post a future followup on the performance of the pump once its had a chance to get some miles of operation on it. Hopefully, everything will work out. I've been fortunate in this case where the pump did not fail and leave me stranded. It will be a completely different story if the new pump fails on the road or starts wailing away before it provides many miles of good service.
Remember gasoline will dissolve blacktop. Move the tank off the drive to change the pump.

As I look up under the car at the top of the fuel tank straps I can see a nut on a stud, and there also appears to be a j-nut up behind the sheetmetal. Is the nut attached to the stud so that they come out together? What are my chances of removing this hardware without it breaking? I live in MI where lots of salt is used on the roads in winter and the hardware appears to be rusted. The tank straps appear to be slightly twisted at the top from when the attaching hardware was originally torqued down at the factory. Is it recommended to replace the straps? What are my chances of removing the sending unit without pulling the tank? Even if it is possible, I should probably remove the tank anyway to clean all of the dirt out of the bottom of the tank. Can't be too much dirt present as the car runs fine once it starts. Would it be possible (if I can remove the sending unit without pulling the tank) to clean the tank in place using a vampire pump through the sending unit opening? If I do need to replace the hardware, how does one go about r/r the j-nuts? As a rule, I do not like taking shortcuts but I hate messing with rusted/stripped/broken hardware even worse! Thanks again.

As I look up under the car at the top of the fuel tank straps I can see a nut on a stud, and there also appears to be a j-nut up behind the sheetmetal. Is the nut attached to the stud so that they come out together? What are my chances of removing this hardware without it breaking? I live in MI where lots of salt is used on the roads in winter and the hardware appears to be rusted. The tank straps appear to be slightly twisted at the top from when the attaching hardware was originally torqued down at the factory. Is it recommended to replace the straps? What are my chances of removing the sending unit without pulling the tank? Even if it is possible, I should probably remove the tank anyway to clean all of the dirt out of the bottom of the tank. Can't be too much dirt present as the car runs fine once it starts. Would it be possible (if I can remove the sending unit without pulling the tank) to clean the tank in place using a vampire pump through the sending unit opening? If I do need to replace the hardware, how does one go about r/r the j-nuts? As a rule, I do not like taking shortcuts but I hate messing with rusted/stripped/broken hardware even worse! Thanks again.
Either cut a hole in the trunk over the fuel pump. Make a metal plate use silicon and self tapping screws to attach the plate. Reinstall the trunk liner.
Otherwise use a brush and clean the stud attached to the straps. Spray with a good spray to loosen up the two nuts for a couple of days. Normally they will come loose but when I lived in Ohio some broke. In this case purchase new straps.

In all honesty, the driving force behind purchasing the Airtex product was definitely the price. Like I said, I just couldn't get it out of my head, which probably led me to believe anything that I was hearing from the rep. I will definitely post a future followup on the performance of the pump once its had a chance to get some miles of operation on it. Hopefully, everything will work out. I've been fortunate in this case where the pump did not fail and leave me stranded. It will be a completely different story if the new pump fails on the road or starts wailing away before it provides many miles of good service.
I don't think you need worry about offending anyone compared to some of my posts.

I certainly understand the price thing. I was suckered into the same thing. When My original Fuel Pump went out, I was quoted over $800 for a new OEM pump from a dealership. I too wanted a cheap way out. The sad news is, it cost me more in the long run.

At this point, you have bought your new pump, and will have it installed within a few days. You might want to consider buying an OEM Gasket just to have handy when you R&R the pump. If you don't end up needing it, you can take it back. I have seen the gasket that comes in the box end up not being the right one. Be sure to lube up the new gasket with light grease or oil when you do your re-assembly, this prevents tiny leaks.

I wish you the best of luck and hope the Lying dogs at Airtex were right about only having issues with GM replacements.